Henrietta's Table
In the culinary purgatory of Harvard Square, good food stands out like stars of Bethlehem against a sea of mediocrity. Henrietta's Table, formerly the Bennett Street Cafe, ranks among my favorite restaurants for both its food and atmosphere. It emulates a spacious New England country inn with such vigor that it almost comes across as touristy. But the space delights the eye, with bright, soft light from wall-to-wall windows, country furnishings, lots of head room and a completely open cooking area. The entrance is a farmer's market, featuring vegetables that would make a B&C tomato turn green with envy, and an attractive bar. The all-a-la-carte menu is short but outstanding. It features expertly flame-grilled foods, high quality presentation and nouveau American recipes crossed beautifully with New England country cooking. The seasoning is masterfully subtle, preserving a whole-foods simplicity while creating unforgettable undertones. The grilled vegetables with Vermont chevre and basil olive oil are a work of genius. The Long Island duck (i.e. the Mandarin duck brought over to make Beijin duck) appears on the menu as (approximately) Maple Leaf Farms Duck with Pear Sauce. This ranks among the best duck I have ever tasted. Innovative daily specials supplement Henrietta's hearty menu. A la carte side vegetables, fortified with seasonal pickings such as fiddle heads glow with country goodness and simplicity. Portions are moderate, but so is the total bill, in that the a la carte format allows you to order no more than you want to eat. The biggest drawback is that service is consistently slow. Wear anything better than jeans and a T-shirt. Henrietta's Table is absolutely my favorite al fresco dining choice in Harvard Square, but the brunch has gone downhill. (10/97)
New England
Rating:
***
Price Range:
$$
Charles Hotel
Harvard Square
Cambridge
(617) 661-5005
